Parson’s Bridge by J. Smith, 1809
Ysbyty Cynfyn and Parson’s Bridge (Pont-brên, Pont yr Offeiriad)
This page includes references to Ysbyty Cynfyn church and village AND Parson’s Bridge, but not those which refer just to the standing stones / supposed stone circle. For a discussion and references specifically to the standing stones / stone circle see Ysbyty Cynfyn.
Ysbyty Cynfyn now comprises a church and farm on the A4120 between Dyffryn Castell (on the A44, near Pontrwyd) and Devil’s Bridge (1.5 miles to the south). There used to be an inn or public house there, but its excact location is unknown. A short distance to the north of the church was a Toll Gate (Marked TG on the one-inch ordnance survey maps, 1831-1834, but not on the 2 inch draft, 1820-1821). No tourists mentioned the gate.
Parson’s Bridge became a popular attraction, becasue it comprised a very simple bridge over a torrent of the River Rheidol about 400m east of the church.
The date at the head of each transcription is the date of the visit, if known, or date of publication.
1755
Ysbytty Cenwyn, a village of a few houses, where there is a chapel of ease of that name. This is near the River Rheidol, and about 12 miles from the sea. It appears by the name that this was the residence of some Knights-Hospitallers, instituted by one Cenwyn.
The people of this country are remarkable for wrestling, and pitching a bar over arm. They have a meeting once a year at certain chapels, Yspytty Kenwyn, Ystytty ar Ystwyth, &c. where they remain all night in the chapel to try their activities in wrestling, all the benches being removed, and the spectators generally young women and old champions, who are to see fair play.
Morris, Lewis, Survey of the parish of Llanbadarn Fawr, 1755, Answers to the Queries of ye Society of Antiquaries of London, by L. M. [Lewis Morris], of the Parish of Llanbadarn Fawr in the County of Cardigan, South Wales. British Library, Add. Mss., 14927, ff 22v-23r,
Gentleman’s Magazine, vol. 61, (1791), pp. 13, 326
Lewis, F.R., ‘Lewis Morris and the Parish of Llanbadarn Fawr, Cardiganshire, in 1755’, Arch. Camb., (1938), p. 25
Samuel Meyrick refers to this in his The History and Antiquities of Cardigan, (1808), p. clxiv
1769
21 September, 1769
‘From Aberystwyth across the country to the Devil’s bridge, which is built on a most romantic spot, across two rocks, which, at the distance of 100 feet, flows a rill of water, which, falling under from a precipice, forms a noble cataract; the mountains near this place are covered with shrubs and are well worth observation. We dined at a house called Spatty [Ysbyty Cynfyn], on bread and cheese, and afterwards, with the assistance of a guide, crossed the most dreary mountains that Wales has to boast of to Machynlleth. On the right hand we left the mountain called Plynlymmon…’
Grimston, James Bucknall, Sir, (Third Viscount Grimston, 1749-1809)
A Tour in Wales, 1769, Hertfordshire Record Office D/EV/F 15-19
Report on the manuscripts of the Earl of Gorhambury, Historic Monuments Commission Report, (HMSO, 1906), pp. 242-283
1784
we got some account of the fine country about the Devil’s Bridge, Hafod etc., to which places as soon as we could mount we set off with a curiosity highly excited by the stories we had heard of these mountains, from the bathers at Aberystwyth. It was Saturday evening when we arrived at these wonderful scenes, expecting to find some sort of accommodation at the miserable inn at Spytty [Ysbyty Cynfyn], called Hetty’s Cavern, but the landlady soon undeceived us by showing that she had no other lodging for herself, her husband and daughter, than a loft open to the kitchen, which indeed consisted of the whole house; she however, took in our horses and recommended us to go to farmer Hughes, a neighbour, who received us with much cordiality, giving us cheerfully, though late, the best beds he had, but unfortunately for us, though well warmed, they were quite damp, so that prudence dictated us to keep on our clothes.
Next day to Hetty’s Cavern to find no corn for the horses. Breakfast was milk, bad small beer, sorry potatoes and bread baked in a pot’.
{The following day Cumberland and his companion visited Devil’s Bridge and waterfalls separately; Cumberland became lost and prepared for a night in the valley, but met a boy who, after some attempt at communication, brought some food which Cumberland devoured and continued his exploration of the valley (since he had no thoughts of returning to his comfortless inn) and became completely lost and prepared to spend the night out-of-doors when his companion’s search party found him, having jumped over Parson’s Bridge (a board put over it on a Sunday).
As dark fell, his companion sent out a search party and discovered him. They returned to Hetty’s Inn.}
‘Finding our cavern truly miserable, for the Hetty’s spouse was brewing, she beating him and the house full of smoke we agreed to try Farmer Hughes again and arrived there about 11 o’clock when we found all his dogs about and dared not, as it was dark to approach too near the porch so that finding hollowing produced no answer we returned to the highway where two gates faced each other, I took my seat on one and Mr Long on the other and we held council where we were to pass the night; the moon now broke out and my companion, tired of strolling about had just declared he would sit there till morning, when suddenly, the gate giving way behind him he was decently deposited among some stubbles. To fill up time, we returned to Hetty’s as it grew cold and sat on each side of the fire place smothered with smoke and no refreshment but the small beer, we found ourselves inclined to sleep, but fearing a cold night we remembered the straw in the hay loft so we took blankets and lanterns and lay down in our great coats after climbing up the ladder with the daughter proceeding us. On thrusting my arms into the straw I found it was quite wet and turning to inform my companion I found to my surprise and laughter that he was gradually disappearing through the rafters of the hay loft and the stout Welsh lass struggling in vain to prevent it as one hand was holding the lantern.’
{They returned to the inn again but sleep was impossible because of the smoke and fleas, and continued their tour the next day to Tregaron.}
Cumberland, George, (of Bristol, 1754-1848), A Tour in North and South Wales in the Year 1784, NLW Lloyd-Johnes MSS, (microfilm 215), f. 61
Lloyd-Johnes, H.J., ‘A Tour in North and South Wales in the year 1784’, National Library of Wales Journal, XIX, (1976), pp. 336-338
1787
Catherine Hutton travelled with her father and mother for a few week’s stay at Aberystwyth for the sake of her mother’s health. Visiting sites of interest was not in her itinerary as it was during her later visits to north Wales.
Till lately the inn at Yspytty [Ysbyty Cynfyn] afforded little entertainment for man or horse; it now affords oats as well as hay for the latter; the former still bring their provisions with them. Not that the innkeeper and his family do not eat, but they eat such food as is not agreeable to travellers. The ground floor of the inn consists of one habitable room, and one for lumber. A fire was blazing on the hearth of the former, and over it was stewing the family dinner, which was composed of cabbages, turnips, and carrots. The only servant, a labouring man, was, in the meantime, eating a bowlful of vegetable broth. The grand ornament of the room was a piece of bacon suspended from a beam; and a morsel of this, occasionally, made a feast. The hostess desired our coachman to bring her a piece of beef, if he should come up to Aberystwith again this summer. That he will not, I believe, and the family will go without beef at least another year. The upper part of the dwelling consisted of one room only, to which I mounted by a ladder, and which I entered by a small aperture left in the floor. The aperture conveyed all the light and air permitted to enter the apartment; for window and chimney it had none. It had, however, three beds, one for the master and mistress of the house, one for their servant, and one for the accommodation of any traveller who might be so unfortunate as to be obliged to sleep here. If he sleep between Llanidloes and Aberystwith, it must be here. The entrance occupied one angle of the room, the three beds the others; and by a very ingenious contrivance, curtains were rendered unnecessary. The two walls enclosed the head and one side of the bed; a very neat mat reaching from the roof to the floor, enclosed the other side; the foot of the bed was left open for ingress and egress, the roof formed the tester. We dined here on some cold tongue and some white bread which we had brought with us, and left the remainder, together with some tea and sugar with our hostess; and I considered every mouthful I ate as if it were depriving her of a part of her share of our luxuries. This woman had been a servant in London, and could scold her husband in a very good English; he could only answer in Welsh, and look unutterable things. Poor as from my description you will think this house, and poor as it certainly is, it yet possesses one of the greatest accommodations ever invented by the genius of man – a glazed window! I believe we did not see a pane of glass from Llanidloes hither.
Catherine Hutton’s letter to her brother in Catherine Hutton, Catherine, Reminiscences of a gentlewoman of the last century; letters of Catherine Hutton (Birmingham, Cornish Brothers, 1891), pp. 47-48
1789 or 1795 (about)
[from Llangurig.] At length we reached one of the heights which form the base of Plinlimmon, and descended precipitately to the banks of the Rhydol, which we followed to the wretched village of Spwtty [Ysbyty Cynfyn], and soon afterwards crossed our original track from Aberystwith to Rhyadergowy near the Devil’s bridge in Cardiganshire. Passing beneath the woods and numerous plantations of Havod, we soon reached the village of Spwtty-Ystwith, [Ysbyty Ystwyth] and crossing a ridge of hills in which the Tivy finds its source, descended to the banks of that river to visit the few mouldering fragments of Stratfleur, or Strata Florida abbey.
Skrine, Henry, 1755-1803, Two successive tours throughout the whole of Wales … (1798), pp. 251-252; [pp. 120-121 includes The Devil’s Bridge but not Ysbyty Cynfyn] see 1812 edition below
Mavor W. F, The British Tourists’ or Travellers’ pocket Companion, vol. 5, pp. 138-143 (1798)
Mavor, W.F., The British Tourists’ or Travellers’ pocket Companion, vol 4, (London, 1809)
Some quoted in Mavor, IV, (1812 edition)
1794
‘At Spytty Cenfen where near the door of a cavern, we see inscribed
“Go north, go south, go east, go west,
When past this, you’ve past the best.”
The horrors of that abode of misery are a compleat contrast to the grandeur of the scenes around it.’
Cumberland, George, An Attempt to Describe Hafod, (1796), p. 10
1797 and 1798
{On both walks, Warner arrived at Pentre (Cwmystwyth) and proceeded to Hafod and Aberystwyth without visiting Ysbyty Cynfyn.}
Warner, Richard, A Walk through Wales in Aug, 1797, (Bath, 1798), p. 68
Warner, Richard, A Second Walk Through Wales in August and September, 1798 (1799), p. 147
1797
4 September 1797 (Tuesday)
[Left the inn at Devil’s Bridge] The fog now enveloped every object, and everything wore the most dreary aspect. We went a little way along the Llanidloes road, and then turned out amongst the mountains to the left. We applied at two or three cottages for a guide but the landlord not being able to speak Welsh we could only hold conversation as far as ‘dim Sarcenac’ and ‘dim cum rag’ (no English, no Welsh)… at length we came to a village called Sputty [Ysbyty Cynfyn], which we passed and at a bridge called Ponterwyd we met with a man whom the landlord [at The Devil’s Bridge] had mentioned.
Manners, John Henry, (Fifth Duke of Rutland, 1778-1857), Journal of a tour through north and south Wales, the Isle of Man, (1805), pp. 206-207
1799
Hafod Arms [inn]
Devil’s Bridge
Waterfalls
Chapter XV
We left the Hafod Arms [inn]…with a desire to enjoy, from the top of Plinlimon, the prospect of the setting sun…We entered on a road enclosed between two hedges. … Passed a little church, which seemed to be without bells, there being an empty cupola on the roof, which was destitute of a tower. One large unhewn stone, about seven feet high, was placed on the north-side of the churchyard [Ysbyty Cynfyn?], but as I could not obtain any account of it, I cannot convey any information about it.
Lipscomb, George, Journey into South Wales…in the year 1799, (London, 1802), p. 141
1799
30.8.1799 [Friday]
Passing Sputty-Cen’-wyn, a very small village with a very small church and two or three houses. I crossed Pont-y-Monach and soon reached the Hafod Arms.
Plumptre, James, Rev., A Narrative of a Pedestrian Journey through some parts of Yorkshire, Durham and Northumberland to the Highlands of Scotland and home by the Lakes and some parts of Wales in the summer of 1799, Cambridge University Library, Add MSS, 5816(e), f. 163
Plumptre, James, (1771-1832), [Tours of Wales], Ousby, Ian, James Plumptre’s Britain, The Journals of a Tourist in the 1790s, (London, 1992), The section for Devil’s Bridge and Hafod is not included in his transcription but it was published in the Newsletter of the Friends of Hafod, no 15, (Summer, 1997), pp. 11-17
Early 19th century?
Print: ‘The Parsons Bridge, on the Rhydiol’. N. Wales. Artist: Reed, L. E., printer: Hackett, W., Exeter
http://hdl.handle.net/10107/4675830
1800 (about)
Plan of Ysbyty Cynfyn [mdf3272-3.jpg] showing a circular churchyard with the church in the centre and five dots, probably representing standing stones on the periphery. The two squarish dots at the bottom of the sketch might be the cemetery gate posts. [North is to the right in this plan]
Walk over Hafod grounds with E & B, visit Parsons Bridge, Devil, Monk and Parson Three Ecclesiastics. Rhos Fair…
Ystrad Flur, very little of the old abbey remaining, …
Church in an ancient circle stone
?this high [i.e. ?the stone nearest this is the highest], they are
all rude, gate be
tween two eastern ones
rills that in floods would be grand falls crawl feebly down rocks.
Pont ?Stirwyd [Erwyd] of one arch, near it
appearance of chalybeate springs.
Williams, Edward, (Iolo Morganwg), Journey 3 Llandeilo to Cardiganshire and the north, about 1800, NLW MS 13156A, pp. 191, 194
1802
15.6.1802
Come to Sputty [Ysbyty Cynfyn] after a tedious ride over the desert; and found once more a land of hedges Ysbyty village consists of a chapel and one house. A large stone pitched on end in the Eastern fence of the churchyard. ^It is part of a druidical circle. Iolo.^ Enquire the tradition about it. ?Is an Rector of Llangynog be not the vicar here? If so write to him.
Davies, Walter, NLW MS 1755Bii, Notebook 1, Diary and Journal no V continued from no IV, p. 25
1802
From Ysbyty Ystwyth along a very good road to Hafod, thence to Pentre Newydd Inn [Cwmystwyth], part with Mr W Davies, and am taken very ill of a fever, call for tea, cannot take it, a violent shivering with extreme sickness, obliged to stay there that night … confined here for more than a fortnight, Mr Johnes [of Hafod] hears and from him I experience every possible attention and but for him should never have left the place living in all probability.
letter by Iolo Morganwg copied by Walter Davies, NLW 1760A notebook 4. Itinerary no VI, 1802, Pembroke to Cardigan, pp. 18-21
Original in NLW 1808Eii 1525, letter from Iolo to Walter Davies, 29.8.1802
Jenkins, Geraint H., et al; The Correspondence of Iolo Morganwg, letter 616, vol. 2, (2007), p. 428
1802
Colt Hoare did not visit Ysbyty Cynfyn or Parson’s Bridge when at the Devil’s Bridge.
8.7.1802
Tregaron, Strata Florida … I continued my ride over a most dreary tract of hills through Rhosfair [Ffair Rhos] to Spitty [Ysbyty Ystwyth]. On descending from this place the rich groves of Hafod begin to make some compensation for the many tedious miles I have this day crept along … Hafod, Devil’s Bridge, Aberystwyth.
Colt Hoare, Richard, Journal of a Tour in 1802, Cardiff Central Library ms. 3.127.2; 4.302.1; NLW ms. 16489
Thompson, M.W., The Journeys of Sir Richard Colt Hoare through England and Wales, 1793-1810, (1983), p. 229
1803
The visitors of these scenes seldom go beyond the Devil’s Bridge, unless their road lies for Llanidloes; and even then, they are apt to pass a very curious spot, lying a little to the left of Yspytty ‘r Enwyn [Ysbyty Cynfyn], without notice, for want of information. The village of Yspytty ‘r Enwyn itself, though consisting only of a few wretched cottages, is remarkable on account of its origin. This, and Yspytty Iftwid, [Ysbyty Ystwyth] are the ancient hospitia of the monks, who, when Ystrad Fflur Abbey was in its splendour, stationed small detachments of their brethren at certain intervals, to protect and refresh the traveller on his journey through this desolate track. Wherever the word Yspyty occurs, it may be traced to a similar establishment. These were among the most beneficial of the monastic institutions, and have subsisted on the same footing to modern times upon the continent, wherever they have been permitted by the genius of the prevailing religion, and rendered necessary by the inability of the lay inhabitants, from poverty and want of resort, to open public inns. There is in the churchyard a large, upright stone monument, with the characters entirely defaced. I could not learn, that any tradition was attached to it in the neighbour-hood; and there was nothing in its shape or appearance, particularly to distinguish it from similar erections, to be met with in every part of this country. But the scene to which I referred is Pont Herwid [Ponterwyd], just at the confluence of the rivers Castel and Rydoll, in a deep and narrow dingle, possessing more than the wildness of those I have just now described, without the attractions of their rich and varied beauties. The rocky scenery has not degenerated in boldness, nor is it entirely despoiled of vegetation; but the whole tone of surrounding nature, as well as the surface of the immediate soil, is dark and terrific, and disposes the most persevering enthusiast to retire, after a cursory examination, from the spot. A rude bridge is thrown from rock to rock over a chasm, though different in form, scarcely less repulsive in its aspect than that of the Devil’s Bridge. Those who visit the place would scarcely be induced to credit the fact, were I not to subjoin the name of the gentleman, who performed so extraordinary a feat of activity; but Mr Charles Long, late of the Treasury, undertook to leap over this deep-worn bed of many waters, and cleared it in perfect safety.
Malkin, B.H., M.A., F.S.A., (1769-1842), The Scenery, Antiquities, and Biography of South Wales from materials collected during two excursions in the year 1803. Embellished with views drawn on the spot and engraved by Laporte and a map of the county. (1804), pp. 369-370
1803
14.7.1803
The road from Llanidloes to this place [Devil’s Bridge] is truly romantic. It winds round mountain after mountain at the foot of which flows a river. … Here and there a solitary cottage gives indication that this part of the world is not entirely destitute of inhabitants. I rode, however for miles without beholding a human being. At a distance of 12½ miles from Llanidloes I left the county of Montgomery and entered Cardiganshire. The scenery now changed from the beautiful to the sublime. The road became worse and less distinct and I began to wish for some friendly guide to satisfy my doubts about the correctness of my route. In this dilemma I was happy to see a Welshman mounted on a pony. With great difficulty I made him understand wither I was bound and with no less difficulty he made me comprehend his information that I was on the right track. …I suddenly beheld at least 50 horses all saddled and bridled … [the owners were attending a funeral in a church [Ysbyty Cynfyn] – he looked through the broken window] heard the parson growling the funeral service in Welsh. Having satisfied my curiosity I pursued my journey and arrived safely at the Hafod Arms.
Shepherd, William, Typed copies of William Shephard’s letters to his wife Fanny (Frances Nicholson) from Hafod, 1803-1813 by Philip L Martin of Staffordshire 1943 for J.B. Williams who intended to publish the collection according to a letter in the deposit from Iorwerth Peate of the Welsh Folk Museum, NLW MS15190C
letter dated 14.7.1803 Rhayader (post mark) (vol IV, 28)
1805
Passed through the village of Yspyttyr Enwyn, in the cemetery of which we noticed some ancient pillars.
Mavor, William Fordyce, (1758-1837) A tour in Wales, and through several counties of England: including both the universities; performed in the summer of 1805, (London: 1806), p. 191; (another edition 1809)
Included in A Collection of Modern and Contemporary Voyages and Travels, Volume 1, (Sir Richard Phillips, 1810), p. 73
1806
26.7.1806
drawing of Parson’s Bridge
Payne, William, Album, entitled ‘South Wales’, 1806, National Library of Wales, DV16, p. 8
1807
There are in the churchyard a large, upright stone monument, with the characters entirely defaced. I could not learn that any tradition was attached to them in the neighbourhood; and there was nothing in their shape or appearance, particularly to distinguish them from similar erections, to be met with in every part of this country. I have from numerous appearances in Wales, as well as from a great many passages furnished to me by my literary friends in old Welsh writers, whether historians or poets. been fully persuaded that the first British Christians used the Druidical places of worship in the open air, within large circles of stones, like those of Stone Henge, and Rollrich, or as some call it Rollright, in Oxfordshire. The church and church-yard of Yspytty Kenwyn may be adduced as an instance of this. The church has been built within a large druidical circle or temple. Many of the large stones forming this circle still remain; and the fence around the church-yard is filled up by stone walling in the intermediate spaces.
Malkin, B.H., M.A., F.S.A., (1769-1842), The Scenery, Antiquities, and Biography of South Wales from materials collected during two excursions in the year 1803. Embellished with views drawn on the spot and engraved by Laporte and a map of the county. Second edition, (1807), Vol. 2, pp. 103-104
1808
14.7.1808 Thursday
Ysbytty [Ysbyty Cynfyn] which is built within the area of a Druidical circle, three stones of which are still visible.
Colt Hoare, Richard, Tour of North Wales, Cardiff Central Library, ms 4.302.3, f. 65
Thompson, M.W., The Journeys of Sir Richard Colt Hoare through England and Wales, 1793-1810, (1983), p. 243 did not include this reference to Ysbyty Cynfyn in his extracts.
Richard Fenton, who accompanied Colt Hoare on at least part of this journey, did not mention this site in his surviving journals.
1808
In the churchyard are four stones so places as to form the quarter of the circumference of a circle. The largest of these is that standing to the east, and measures about 11 feet above ground, five feet six inches in breadth, and about two feet thick. Two of the others form at present the gate posts, and stand to the southward. This was, in all probability, a druidical circle, and occupied the site of the present church. The other stones perhaps were broken to pieces to build the Christian edifice. And perhaps this circumstance may account for the name Cenvaen, i.e. stone-ridge; …
Meyrick, S.R., The History and Antiquities of the County of Cardigan, (1808), p. 373
1808
Ysbytty’r Enwyn [Ysbyty Cynfyn]. A rude bridge is thrown from rock to rock over a chasm … Malkin says that Charles Long, late of the Treasury, leapt over this bed of waters near bridge.
Pass through the village of Ysputty’r Enwyn, in the church-yard of which are some ancient pillars.
Nicholson, G., (1760-1825), Nicholson’s Cambrian Traveller’s Guide, in every direction containing remarks made during many excursions in the Principality of Wales augmented by extracts from the best writers, (1808), columns 513, 516
1809 image
Print, ‘The Parson’s Bridge’, artist: Smith, John, (1749-1831), engraver: Stadler, Joseph Constantine.
http://hdl.handle.net/10107/1129004
1810
YSPYTTY CE’N-FAEN.
From the name, Yspytty, which is an evident corruption of hospitium, it is ascertained to have been one of the numerous places of shelter and accommodation, erected and maintained by the monks of Ystrad-fflur in this wild country, at a period when it contained hardly any other human habitation. The miserable ale-house of this little village continued to form the only place of entertainment for travellers in the neighbourhood, till the Hafod Arms was erected.
In the churchyard are four large stones placed upright in the ground and forming the periphery of the quadrant of a circle. The largest is eleven feet in height, and nearly six feet in breadth. They appear to have been a part of a great circle of the kind usually denominated druidical, within which it appears the present church was built. It has been conjectured that the name of the place, Cefn-y-faen, the “stone ridge,” (Literally, the Ridge of the Stone or rock), might have been derived from this ancient erection but its derivation is more probably to be sought in the rocky bank immediately behind the church, composing one of the lofty shores of the Rheidol.
Rees, Thomas, A topographical and historical description of Cardiganshire, (1810), pp. 441-442
Rees, Thomas, The Beauties of England and Wales: or, original delineations, topographical, historical and descriptive of each country, South Wales, volume 18, (London, 1815), pp. 441-442
1810
Devil’s Bridge with sketch
The Parson’s bridge nothing more than two oaken beams the ends of which rest on opposite rocks in the River Rheidol. For sixty or eighty yards above the bridge, the river came foaming along a bed of rock and rushed under a bridge with a violence which nothing could resist, and a noise which absolutely stunned me. This spot is truly romantic and picturesque, but in point of sublimity and terrific grandeur, it is inferior, very much inferior to the Devil’s Bridge … [re origins of the Parson’s Bridge]
Hue, Clement, Tour journal, NLW ms. 23218B, pp. 29-30
1810?
Mr Broughton’s Tour, with Inns and distances and notes:
Aberystwyth, Devil’s Bridge, ‘Walk a mile or more to the village of Ysbyty [Cynfyn] there ask the way to Parson’s bridge or Pont y Herwyd [Pont Erwyd – but incorrect name] a more terrifying spot than even the Devil’s Bridge.’
Broughton, Brian, Rev., Long Ditton, NLW MS 23218, p. 184
[continuation of Corbet Hue’s journal.]
1813
Cash account 5th journey into south Wales
Hafod Arms [inn] 6/-
Ysbyty Cenwyn 6d
Devil’s Bridge 4/-
Davies, Walter, (Walter Mechain), NLW MS 1762B, II, dated May 13th 1813, p. 180
1813
Davies clearly saw the site in this year and cited Iolo Morganwg as the source of the identification of the stones as a Druidical circle, but it is not clear whether the measurements were his or Iolo’s.
Came to Ysbyty Kenvyn a small chapel, attended only by one house, and that selling ale.
Iolo Morganwg saw here in the churchyard wall, the vestiges of an ancient Druidical circle. There are large upright stones in the wall, two serving for gateposts – a 3rd short and thick a 4th at somewhat regular distance, thick, but not higher than the wall a 5th higher up – larger, and about 7 ft above the ground. They are of the inundated clefty mountain rock, not uncommon in these parts running through, or sometimes resting upon the shale.
Davies, Walter (Gwalter Mechain), NLW MS 1755Bii, notebook 7, Diary 1813 continued from dated Nov 22 1812 including a journal to S Wales 24th May1813
(Jones, p. 385) pp. 15/9v
1813
Parson’s Bridge consisting of planks laid across a cleft of about eight feet wide, and twenty deep. One end of the plank is fixed upon the eastern side of the river but the opposite end is supported upon a rock, which, by its projection into the middle of the stream, contracts its channel to this narrow span. The banks on either side, at least a hundred and fifty feet in height, are nearly precipitous; and the paths by which the bridge is approached, consequently ill calculated for those who are unaccustomed to mountain tracks: the descent from the east is particularly terrific, down a remarkably steep bank, for some hundred feet, constantly shelving towards the chasm, without a single bush, or check of any kind in case of accident. A narrow zig-zag path leads to the top of the eastern bank. The whole of this side being covered with small wood, affords an appearance of safety of which the opposite side is destitute. The bridge is commonly used by the neighbouring peasantry, and was, for a length of time, without even the protection of a handrail.
Here a small stream from the east pays it tribute [to the Rheidol] running by the church of Spytty C’env’n, a chapel of east to Llanbadarn Fawr, from which the Rheidol is distant about half a mile. There are four large stones in the churchyard: the largest stands to the east, and measures about eleven feet high, upwards of five feet broad, and two thick; two of the others are used a gate-posts, and the forth stands between those and the first mentioned. These stones are supposed to have been part of a Druidical circle, within which the church has been built. The rest may have been destroyed, and converted to other purposes; the common fate of such remains.
Wood, J.G., The Principal Rivers of Wales Illustrated, Consisting of a Series of Views from the Source of each River to its Mouth, Accompanied by Descriptions, Historical, Topographical, and Picturesque, (1813), part 1, pp. 172-173
1813
Passed Spythy C’enfaen, where the church seemed to be without bells, a large unhewn stone, about 7 feet high, stood on the N. side of the yard. [Derived from Lipscombe, (1799) above]
[To Llanidloes from the Devil’s Bridge] Pass through the village of Ysbyty C’en fyn, a chapel of ease to Llanbadarn y Creuddyn ucuaf. The church consists simply of a nave. {Monument to Thomas Hughes.} In the yard are four large stones, forming the segment of a circle. The largest measures 11 feet above ground, 5 feet 6 inches broad, and about 2 feet thick. Two of the others form gateposts. These are probably part of a druidic circle, the rest of which were broken up to form this Christian edifice. [Derived from Meyrick (1808)]
[Nicholson, George,] The Cambrian Traveller’s Guide, in every direction containing remarks made during many excursions in the Principality of Wales augmented by extracts from the best writers, (1813), cols 1092, 1096
See above for the 1808 edition and below for the 1840 edition.
1819
Saturday 24.7.1819 at Devil’s Bridge
‘the waiter having assured us that we should easily find our way over the mountains to Machynlleth it not being more than 20 miles distant due north. Now this sounded very smooth and fair, but you will perceive that no account was taken of the following circumstances 1. No roads, 2 no houses, 3 no people, 4 rivers but no bridges, 5 plenty of mountains. However, we got out Nichol’s compass and water cup and trusted to chance to the rest and as it happened chance served us very well. We followed the road for about 3 miles and then came to a turnpike as we expected we happened too, to find a woman in the toll house [Ysbyty Cynfyn] but she talked no English so that she was as bad as no woman to us. Taking our chances we struck off at a venture into what we supposed the mountain road, leaving the rest to happen as it might. We were not without our pleasures on this droll expedition. The view was beautiful in all directions being enlivened with wood and water and in crossing the river Rheidol one of these which runs to the Devil’s Bridge we stopped on its bridge [Ponterwyd] to admire a beautiful cascade made by its stream just before it.’
Faraday, Michael, (1791-1867), Dafydd Tomos, Michael Faraday in Wales : including Faraday’s journal of his tour through Wales in 1819 [1972], p.59
1820
28.9.1820
After breakfast took a post-chaise and went to see what is called the Parson’s-bridge, a narrow wooden bridge of a couple of planks thrown over a deep ravine from rock to rock, on the River Rhieddol—the most romantic thing possible. … got into their carriage at a quarter before twelve for Hafod, five miles,
Gwenynen Gwynedd, ‘Aberystwith in 1820 [from a diary of an anonymous tourist]’, Cymry Fu, (May 19, 1888), p. 181
1821 image
Parson’s Bridge
One wonder yet remains, the delight of my eyes, and the perfection of the whole – the Parson’s Bridge; a scene sublime, and even horrible, but capable of being wrought into a noble picture. Yet it is rarely drawn of seen, perhaps from the difficulty of getting at it. I have met with but one view – an elaborate one by Glover in the watercolour exhibition of 1808, no 194 … Fearful it is to stand upon the giddy footing of the plank across the chasm, and mark the wild grandeur of the scenery. The whirling torrent, the fantastic rocks, scooped into hollows of unknown depth, the barren steep, the gloomy wood, the spiry mountain tops, – while the hollow rush of the water heard at intervals, adds solemnity to the whole.
[Notes on the] Station [view point] for Parson’s Bridge, and print of the bridge.
Newell, Robert Hasell, Rev, (1778-1852), Letters on the Scenery of Wales; including a series of Subjects for the Pencil, with their Stations determined on a General Principle; and Instructions to Pedestrian Tourists, (1821), p. 85-86
1823 image
11 July 1823 (Friday)
This morning we rose before six, and after swallowing a basin of milk and bread [at the Hafod Arms, Devil’s Bridge], sallied forth for a long day’s march. The first place on the Llanidloes road is Yspytty Kenwyn, whose low unaspiring church, fit emblem of Christianity, stands sheltered by a few trees on the left hand of, and very near to, the high road. This was a part of the great monastic establishment at Ystrad Fflur, and, as the name imports, was a place of hospitality and refuge. There are in the church-yard many upright monumental stones, and these, as well as the circular form of the consecrated ground, have induced Mr. Malkin to believe that this was formerly a large Druidical circle or temple. We went through the church-yard, and over the nearest eminence, whence we descended on the other side by a zig-zag path to the course of the Rheiddol, to see Pont-brên, commonly called the Parson’s bridge, which consists of nothing more than two planks of wood, with a slender rail for the hand, stretched across the river, and connecting the opposite banks; it is a most picturesque spot, very little known. The waters pouring tumultuously down a confined valley, struggle under the bridge for passage, with an amazing fury, being hemmed in between vast masses of rock, which they have made black with a perpetual bath. Their fury is appalling; nothing but the foam and surge of the water is to be seen. I made a sketch of the scene, just at the turn of the river under the footbridge; and I endeavoured to discover the point of sight adopted by Mr. Newell, but in this I was disappointed.
Freeman, George John, Sketches in Wales; or, A diary of three walking excursions in that principality, in the years 1823, 1824, 1825. (London, 1826), pp. 36-37
Print of ‘Pont Bren’ [Parson’s Bridge], on stone by T.M. Baynes, printed by C. Hullmandel.
1823
Q. Is there any thing else deserving notice in this vicinity?
A. In the church-yard of Yspytty Ce’n Faen, a little to the north of Hafod, are four stones, part of a druidical circle. The footpath through the churchyard conducts to one of the most romantic parts of the valley of the Rheidol, where is a curious foot bridge, called the Parson’s Bridge.
Pinnock, W., The History and Topography of South Wales with Biographical Sketches, (London, 1823), p. 25
1824
In the evening my uncle and cousins walked to the Parson’s Bridge about two miles from this place [The Devil’s Bridge]. They were much pleased with their walk and with the grand scenery at this opposition bridge, but they agree I believe that the palm belongs to this black gentleman [the Devil].
Martineau, Margaret, Travel diary of Margaret Martineau – journey from St Albans into north and South Wales, Hampshire Record Office, 83M93/21, p. 35
1825 image
Print: VALLEY OF THE RHEIDDOL, LOOKING TOWARDS THE DEVIL’S BRIDGE.
The romantic valley of the Rheiddol abounds in grand and picturesque views. The annexed scene represents the deep chasm, through which the river works its passage, from the rocky height behind the Parson’s Bridge. The sides of the mountains enclosing this gloomy valley are of wild and barren character, and nearly destitute of wood, forming a fine contrast with the rich foliage of the woods which clothe the rocky sides of the chasm. The Parson’s bridge is nothing more than a slender plank placed across a terrific abyss, connecting two opposite rocks, beneath which the foaming torrent rages with deafening roar. A slight hand-rail on one side is the only safeguard to the unsteady traveller who ventures across this dangerous foot-bridge ; and it is named the Parson’s bridge from a fatal accident which tradition relates to have befallen a clergyman of one of the neighbouring parishes.
Welsh Scenery from Drawings from Captain Batty, (London, 1825), no. 7
1830s image
Watercolour. Anon, Parson’s Bridge, NLW DV5, p. 24
1831
THE PARSON’S BRIDGE, OR PONT BREN, Is about two miles from the Devil’s Bridge. It consists of two rude pieces of timber thrown across a frightful chasm, with a hand-rail on one side only, while beneath, the Rheidol forms a boiling whirlpool, and roars with terrific din. It is said to have been erected by a parson, during the last century, for the convenience of serving the two churches he had under his care; and which, by means of this bridge, and a walk over the hills, he was enabled to do with a saving of several miles’ distance. Some persons, however, assert that the bridge derives its name from the circumstance of a parson who was intoxicated falling from it into the torrent beneath; and they add, that when the water is low, the impress of his figure is still visible! The surrounding hills are remarkably grand, and the rocks very curious, some of them being excavated into deep cylindrical pools, and others ridged, and formed, as it were, of concentric layers.
The tourist may readily find the Parson’s Bridge by pursuing the following direction: On leaving the Hafod Arms, cross the Devil’s Bridge, proceed along the Llanidloes road for about a mile and a half, till you arrive at the church of Yspytty Kenwyn; cross the stone wall to the left of the church, and enter a field, on the opposite side of which is an irregular and steep path, descending through underwood to the Bridge.
Yspytty Kenwyn was formerly connected with Strata Florida Abbey. In the churchyard are several upright monumental stones, from which, and the circular form of the enclosure, it has been inferred that this was once a Druidical temple.
Leigh’s Guide to Wales and Monmouthshire … (1st edition, 1831), 129-130; (2nd edition, 1833), pp. 133-134; (4th Edition, 1839), pp. 139-140
1832 image
drawing ‘Parson’s Bridge, Cards, a rude plank 15 ft by one’
Wornum, R.N., National Gallery Archives (NGA/2/1/6) (formerly NG32/6), Sketchbook, no. 54
1833
11 August 1833 [Sunday]
After breakfast we took a postchaise from the Inn [Hafod Arms, Devil’s Bridge] & proceeding along the Llanidloes road for a mile & a half arrived at the church of [Ysbyty] kenwyn a Mr Edwards read & preached seeing some English present he kindly read the second lesson & the Gospel in English, the sermon and the rest of the service were in Welsh. After it was over we went down to the Parsons bridge were the wild grandeur of the scenery was calculated to lead the mind from nature up to natures God. The bridge itself consists of two rude pieces of timber thrown across a frightful chasm with a wooden rail on one side only whilst underneath the waters of the Rheidol form a boiling whirlpool & roar with a thundering noise. Tradition supposes it to have been erected by a clergyman to enable him to preach at the two churches he had under his care & this bridge saved him a round of many miles.
Anon (of Hull?), Diary for January 22nd-September 9th 1833, Wigan archives EHC96/M864, p. 93
Transcript Produced by Bill Melling, Archive Volunteer, © Wigan Archives Service
1833
In the churchyard of Ysbytty Cynvyn are four large stones standing upright in the ground and forming part of a Druidical circle.
Lewis, Samuel, Topographical Dictionary of Wales, (1833), Cardiganshire, Antiquities
1835
On a beautiful summer evening we crossed the Devil’s Bridge, and walked along the road to the distance of about a mile and a half, when we came to a quiet little church and a solitary group of cottages. We then turned off to the left of the road, and presently came to the deep, rough chasm through which the Rhydol runs. We descended about 250 feet by a rude and steep path, and then found ourselves on a ledge of rocks immediately above the foaming torrent, which is there narrow but deep. Three planks of no great breadth are laid from the rock on which we stood to another ledge on the opposite side of the torrent, and the stem of a small tree, the opposite ends of which were not very steadily fixed in the rocks, serves as a hand-rail on one side of the planks. This is the Monk’s Bridge, which is of the same fashion and materials as many bridges that are found among the Alps. In crossing it the planks bent, and the single hand-rail shook so much, and seemed so weak and unstable, that we did not rely upon it for much support. This primitive and perilous-looking bridge may be about six yards long and above fifty feet above the Rhydol, which, just under the planks, has scooped out a dark deep pool, over which the torrent flows to some sharp jagged rocks close at hand, where it makes a fall. On the other side of the bridge we saw a path leading up the sides of the chasm, similar to that by which we had descended. Rough and dangerous as the passage is, it is much frequented by the peasantry. The bridge is sometimes called “the Parson’s Bridge.”
Anon, The Penny Magazine, XLI, 15 August, 1835, pp 313-315 (American?)
1836
11.8.1836 (Thursday)
Walked to the Parson’s Bridge with Masqueriers [John James Masquerier (1778 – 1855), portrait painter] and Mr Thomas we? found this more fit for a picture than any one of the falls under the bridge. It is a very wild scene … breakfast, returned to Parson’s Bridge. Met Sweeting, the Tory Attorney of Huntingdon. We left Masqueriers to paint the romantic Parson’s Bridge, and ???????? his son returned over the mountains had a painful descent to the ????? ???? which we with difficulty forded by stepping over the huge stones …
Robinson, Henry Crabb, Dr. Williams’s Library, 14 Gordon Square, London, travel journal no 24, (microfilm), pp. 17-18
1837
Visited Parson’s Bridge guided ‘by a poor Welsh peasant girl of a very simple appearance, she could speak English a little and we learnt from her that she was engaged to knit stockings in the village of Spitty Kenwyn [Yspyty Cynfyn] for six pence a day, a very small amount but one which she seemed perfectly contented and satisfied.’
‘The bridge is decidedly an object of rustic grandeur, it consists of two rude planks thrown across a yawning chasm between which the romantic Rheidol rushes with a fury and impetuosity truly terrific. The scenery in the vicinity accords well with the grandeur of this object, rocks of considerable height barren, dreary and desolate encompass it on all sides and give to it a wild and awful character. The planks are about 18 feet in length and one foot wide so that it may be imagined, it required a steady head and sure foot to cross it with safely.’
[Origin of name: Drunk clergyman fell into the valley and left an impression in the solid rock and story of the clergy man having to cross it on Sundays]
Ponterwyd a romantic little village …
Horace, Francis, Journal of a tour 1837, NLW ms 11596B, ff. 260-266
1838
Leaving the Devil’s Bridge for Llanidloes, at the distance of 1 mile, is Yspyty Cynfyn, whose church stands on the left hand of and very near to the high road. This was a part of the great monastic establishment at Ystrad Fflur, and as the name imports, was a place of hospitality and refuge. There are in the church-yard many upright monumental stones, and these, as well as the circular form of the consecrated ground, have induced Mr Malkin to believe that this was formerly a large Druidical circle or temple.
Through the church-yard is a path leading to The Parson’s Bridge, which consists of nothing more than two planks of wood with a slender hand-rail: it is a picturesque spot, and the waters of the Rheidol pouring tumultuously down a confined valley, struggle under the bridge for passage with amazing fury.
Bingley, W., Rev, (1774-1823), Excursions in North Wales, including Aberystwith and the Devil’s Bridge intended as a guide to Tourists by the late Rev W Bingley. Third edition, with corrections and additions made during excursions in the year 1838, by his son, W. R. Bingley, (London, 1839), p. 184
Some of this is from Freeman, (1826), above.
1840
The wording of this is slightly different to that of the 1813 edition (above).
[To Llanidloes from Devil’s Bridge] Pass through the village of Ysbytty Cenfaen, a chapel of ease to Llanbadarn-fawr, … In the yard are four large stones, forming the segment of a circle. The largest measures 11 feet above ground, 5 feet 6 inches broad, and about 2 feet thick. Two of the others form gateposts. These are probably part of a druidic circle, the rest of which were broken up to form the chapel.
Nicholson, Emilius, Nicholson’s Cambrian Traveller’s Guide, in every direction containing remarks made during many excursions in the Principality of Wales augmented by extracts from the best writers, Third edition, revised and corrected by his son, The Rev. Emilius Nicholson, (1840), p. 508 (from Lipscombe, 1799, above) and p. 509
Partly derived from Meyrick (1808).
1841
Two miles hence is the Parsons bridge …
It consists merely of two rough planks with a hand railing and owes its name and designation to a Welsh curate who thereby shortened his distance between two churches at which he officiated.
Anon, ‘Welsh Journal, 1841’, NLW MS 748B, pp. 92-93
1844
16.6.1844 Sunday Devil’s Bridge
Intended to have gone to the Welsh church at Stuffy [Yspytty] but the fatigue of yesterday laid an interdict. … To join in an evening service we were compelled to make our way over the hills to Aberystwyth
Anon, An Account of a Tour in Wales c 1830 1844, NLW MS 10566D
1848
The church of Yspytty Cynfaen consists simply of a nave, and is chiefly interesting on account of its origin. From its name, Yspytty, which is evidently a corruption of Hospitium, it is considered to have been one of the numerous places of shelter and refreshment erected and maintained by the monks of Ystrad Fflur in their wild country, at a period when it contained hardly any other human habitation. In the churchyard are four large stones, so placed as to form the quarter of the circumference of a circle. The largest of these is that standing to the east, which measures about 11 feet above the ground; two of the others form at present the gate posts, and stand to the southward. This was, in all probability, a Druidical circle, and occupied the site of the present church; the other stones were probably broken to pieces to build the Christian edifice.
Morgan, T.O., New Guide to Aberystwith and its Environs, (1848), p. 107
Morgan, T.O., New Guide to Aberystwith and its Environs, (2nd edition, 1851), p. 112
Morgan, T.O., New Guide to Aberystwith and its Environs, (3rd edition, 1858), pp. 112-113
4th Edition, 1864
5th Edition, 1869
New Edition, 1874, (not by T.O.Morgan)
edition 1884 (Town Library collection)
1852
Another scene has yet to be visited from the Devil’s bridge. The Parson’s bridge, or Pont Bren is about two miles higher up the Rheidol, on the way to Pont Erwyd, and near the church of Yspytty Cynfyn. This romantic bridge consists of two trees, or rude pieces of timber, laid across a formidable chasm, from rock to rock, with a slight hand-rail on one side only, while, below, the Rheidol rushes through a narrow channel, forming a boiling whirlpool, and roaring with terrific din. Marvellous stories are narrated as accounting for the appellation of this singular bridge, rejecting which, we conclude that it is named the Parson’s bridge simply because it is the common or the villagers to Yspytty Church. In the neighbouring churchyard are several erect stones, believed to have formed a portion of a Druidical circle.
Black’s Picturesque Guide through north and south Wales and Monmouthshire, (Edinburgh, 1852), p. 212 and many subsequent editions up to early 20th century, some split into north and south editions.
1854
[chapter 15]
By this time we had arrived at a small village, with a toll-bar and a small church or chapel at some little distance from the road, which here made a turn nearly full south.
The road was very good but the country was wild and rugged ; there was a deep vale on the right, at the bottom of which rolled the Rheidol in its cleft, rising beyond which were steep, naked hills.
“This village,” said my companion,” is called Ysbytty Cynfyn. Down on the right, past the church, is a strange bridge across the Rheidol, which runs there through a horrid kind of a place. The bridge is called Pont yr Offeiriad or the Parson’s Bridge, because in the old time the clergyman passed over it every Sunday to do duty in the church here.”
“Why is this place called Ysbytty Cynfyn?” said I, “which means the hospital of the first boundary; is there a hospital of the second boundary near here?”
“I can’t say anything about boundaries, your honour; all I know is, that there is another Spytty farther on beyond Hafod called Ysbytty Ystwyth, or the ‘Spytty upon the Ystwyth’. But to return to the matter of the Minister’s Bridge: I would counsel your honour to go and see that bridge before you leave these parts. A vast number of gentry go to see it in the summer time. It was the bridge which the landlord was mentioning last night, though it scarcely belongs to his district, being quite as near the Devil’s Bridge inn, as it is to his own, your honour.” [Borrow continued to the Devil’s Bridge]
[chapter 17]
At length about twelve o’clock, fearing that if I stayed within [the Inn at the Devil’s Bridge] I should lose my appetite for dinner, which has always been one of the greatest of my enjoyments, I determined to go and see the Minister’s Bridge [Parson’s Bridge] which my friend the old mining captain had spoken to me about. I knew that I should get a wetting by doing so, for the weather still continued very bad, but I don’t care much for a wetting provided I have a good roof, a good fire and good fare to betake myself to afterwards. … Half-an-hour’s walking brought me to the little village through which I had passed the day before. Going up to a house I knocked at the door, and a middle-aged man opening it, I asked him the way to the Bridge of the Minister. He pointed to the little chapel to the west and said that the way lay past it, adding that he would go with me himself, as he wanted to go to the hills on the other side to see his sheep.
We got presently into discourse. He at first talked broken English, but soon began to speak his native language. I asked him if the chapel belonged to the Methodists.
“It is not a chapel,” said he, “it is a church.” “Do many come to it ?” said I.
“Not many, sir, for the Methodists are very powerful here. Not more than forty or fifty come.” …
I found him a highly-intelligent person: on my talking to him about the name of the place he said that some called it Spytty Cynfyn, and others Spytty Cynwyl, and that both Cynwyl and Cynfyn were the names of people, to one or other of which the place was dedicated, and that like the place farther on called Spytty Ystwyth, it was in the old time a hospital or inn for the convenience of the pilgrims going to the great monastery of Ystrad Flur or Strata Florida.
Passing through a field or two we came to the side of a very deep ravine, down which there was a zigzag path leading to the bridge. The path was very steep, and, owing to the rain, exceedingly slippery. For some way it led through a grove of dwarf oaks, by grasping the branches of which I was enabled to support myself tolerably well; nearly at the bottom, however, where the path was most precipitous, the trees ceased altogether. Fearing to trust my legs, I determined to slide down, and put my resolution in practice, arriving at a little shelf close by the bridge without any accident. The man, accustomed to the path, went down in the usual manner. The bridge consisted of a couple of planks and a pole flung over a chasm about ten feet wide, on the farther side of which was a precipice with a path at least quite as steep as the one down which I had come, and without any trees or shrubs, by which those who used it might support themselves. The torrent rolled about nine feet below the bridge; its channel was tortuous; on the south-east side of the bridge was a cauldron, like that on which I had looked down from the bridge over the river of the monks. The man passed over the bridge and I followed him ; on the other side we stopped and turned round. The river was rushing and surging, the pot was boiling and roaring, and everything looked wild and savage; but the locality for awfulness and mysterious gloom could not compare with that on the east side of the Devil’s Bridge, nor for sublimity and grandeur with that on the west. “Here you see, sir,” said the man, “the Bridge of the Offeiriad, called so, it is said, because the popes used to pass over it in the old time;
Borrow, George, Wild Wales, vol. 3, (1862), pp. 169, 183-185
1854
{Mr John Jughes of Lluestgwilym, Aberystwyth, favoured us with the following remarks: Ysbyty-Ystrad Meyrick, Ysbyty Ystwyth and Ysbyty Cenfin all with in a short distance of each other have chapels dedicated to St John, the patron saint of the Knights Hospitallers.}
Parson’s Bridge (Pont Bren) … two trees are placed across a deep chasm with a hand rail on one side below which the Rheidol foams angrily over remarkable rocks. There are Druidical remains in Ysbytty [Cynfyn] churchyard.
Cliffe, Charles Frederick, The Book of South Wales … (3rd edition, 1854), pp. 288-290
1854
The Parson’s Bridge is simply two very thick planks, with a strong rail to take hold of, over a deep chasm and rapid river, at the bottom of a declivity as low as the Devil’s Bridge, – the falls of the latter being about 314 feet.
A Memorial of the Late Mr. Bourne: Presented to the Teachers and Scholars of Denby and Street Lane Sunday Schools, edited by James Everett, (London, 1862), pp. 45-46
1861
About 1¾ m. on the Rhayader road is the little church of Yspytty Cynfyn (from its name formerly an hospitium), in the churchyard of which are 3 Druidical stones; and about ½ m. on the l., in a deep and gloomy defile, is the Parson’s Bridge, which the tourist should not neglect to visit, for its very wild and picturesque beauty. A handrail is thrown from rock to rock and secured by chains, while the Rheidol foams underneath, confined between two projecting rocks. From the Parson’s Bridge the ravine may be ascended on the opposite side, and the path followed to Pont Erwyd.
Murray’s Handbook for Travellers in North Wales … (John Murray, 1861); (2nd edition, 1864); (3rd edition, 1868), p. 174; (4th edition, 1874); (5th edition, 1885), p. 179
1866
A short distance from the “Devil’s Bridge,” on the Llanidloes road, there is a small Church called Yspytty Cefnfaen [sic]. This church is of modern erection, and plainly constructed. There was an hospitium here under Strata Florida; the church was also built by the monks of that abbey. According to some authorities, the Church is built on the spot where a druidical temple once stood; in the Churchyard there were four large stones forming a periphery of a quadrant of a circle-one of them was eleven feet in height. They are now in the churchyard wall. On the opposite side of the river there is a small cottage called the “temple;” it is supposed that a druidical temple stood here also. The Church was a Chapel of Ease under Llanbadarn-fawr, and the living is a perpetual curacy, the patronage being in the hands of the landholders. According to an old survey, they are to pay sixpence in the pound towards the minister’s salary. The interior of the Church has undergone great improvement of late years. Some antiquarians supposed that it was called Yspytty Cefnfaen from this old temple; but others say that it was so called from the high rocky bank between the church and the Rheidiol. Prior to the erection of the “Devil’s Bridge Hotel,” the village ale-house was a great resort of travellers. Yspytty was the burial ground of this part of the county for miles around, and the old custom of “offerings” at funerals was kept up here within thirty years ago.
On the west side of the church there is a small but very curious wooden bridge, called “Pontbren yr Оffiraid”—the Parson’s Bridge; it is supposed that it was first erected by the clergyman for the accommodation of the inhabitants of the western side of the river, who could not attend the service of the church without walking many miles. We have been informed that a rude figure of a man was to be seen cut out of the rock close to this bridge; if such was the case, it has been worn out by the water many years ago. The Rheidol is confined here between two projecting rocks of great depth. The paths leading to this bridge are very dangerous to strangers, but the inhabitants are in the habit of crossing in safety, even on the darkest nights. Mr. Malkin says that gentleman of the name of Mr. Charles Long, late of the Treasury, undertook to jump over this stupendous pass, and actually cleared it in perfect safety. William Jones, Esq., of Llwyn-y-Groes, and several other gentlemen accomplished the same feat. The scenery here is most romantic, the bed of the river all the way from Ponterwyd is confined by stupendous rocks.
Rowlands, John, Historical Notes of the Counties of Glamorganshire, Carmarthensire and Cardiganshire, (Cardiff: 1866), pp. 92-93
1868 image
Photograph of Parson’s Bridge
Soppitt, C., Album NLW BV122 (PB2217), ff. 19v-46
1868
Yspytty Cynfyn, a parish in county Cardigan, 10 miles S.E. of Aberystwith. The village is situated on the Rhayader road, near the confluence of the rivers Castel and Rheidol, which unite in a rocky gorge forming a cataract. About half a mile from the village, in a defile, is “Parson’s Bridge.” There are traces of a hospitium, or sanctuary for travellers, from which the, village takes the prefix to its name, and in the churchyard are four blocks of stone which once formed part of a Druid circle. The living is a perpetual curacy in the diocese of St. David’s, value £105, in the patronage of the landowners.
The National Gazetteer of Great Britain and Ireland, (1868),
1872
Church repairs, (1872-9)
John Jones to Rev. B Edwards Llanfihangel-y-Creuddyn
To repairing the Church of Ysbytty Cynffyn as per contract £236.0.0
To plastering the walls as agreed and as ?? ?? examined at the time £4. 5. 8
To interest paid by me on the several sums borrowed at the NPB £2.0.7
TOTAL £242.6.5
Account book of John Jones (b. 1815), Llwyn-gog, Pontrhydfendigaid, co. Cardigan, carpenter and stonemason, NLW ms. 23159, ff. 141, 157, 177v- 8.
1878
The Parson’s Bridge
This is situate about two miles from the Hafod Hotel, along the Ponterwyd Road. Whoever pays this spot a visit should walk very slowly to Ysbytty Cynfyn church, in order to brace up all the powers of endurance for the descent to and the ascent from the bridge. This bridge … consists only of a single plank spanning from rock to rock, while below is the foaming troubled water … Why this bridge is styled the Parson’s Bridge, deponent sayeth not but in all probability the church parson at one time, years ago, lived on the other side, and in order to save a long journey round to the Devil’s Bridge or Ponterwyd, spanned the chasm with a solitary plank. Time’s chariot wheels have made their carriage road in this plank, all that intervenes between life and death, and left it all the worse for wear. Those who use it would do well to subscribe another plank.
Groves, W.H., Guide to Aberystwyth and the Devil’s Bridge, with numerous legends, (Aberystwyth, 1878), p. 50
Groves, W.H., The popular guide to Aberystwyth, the Devil’s Bridge and Mid-Wales with numerous legends, 2nd edition. (Printed by Wheatley and Sons, Aberystwyth, [1883], pp. ?75, 91
1882
The Parson’s Bridge is one of the attractions of the neighbourhood. This is situated higher up the Rheidol and consists of a tree, slightly protected by rails, thrown over to connect two precipitous rocks enclosing a boiling torrent. In visiting it the visitor goes to Ysbytty Cynfyn, and there takes a path to the left by the church, in the yard of which there are some ancient stones.
Roberts, Askew and Woodall, Edward, Gossiping Guide to Wales (North Wales and Aberystwyth), popular edition, (Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent and Co, (1882), p. 29; (1889), p. 38; (1900), p. 48; (1954), p. 52
1902
The tiny church [at Ysbutty Cynfyn] is curiously built within the limits of an old stone circle, of which some huge stones remain. From the top of one of these, six feet high near the gateway, the last generation was made acquainted after church on Sunday, with the details of sheep strayed or stolen; there are traces of fire on small stones around the second erect pillar; the third stone is eleven feet long and a yard broad, with a thickness of half a yard. Large stones lie decumbent throughout the churchyard wall, and the lower portion of the yard is raised fully four feet above the surrounding ground. There were probably here, as in many other stone circles – at Gilgal [note:] the name denotes circle [end of note] and elsewhere – twelve upright stones, and the presence of the church within the circle [the burial ground has been quite recently enlarged] lends colour to the surmise that they were originally connected with worship. A glimpse of a complete circle of twelve erect stones is seen on the opposite bank of the Rheidol, from the top of the rocky path to the Parson’s Bridge.
Horsfall-Turner, E.R., Walks and Wanderings in County Cardigan, [1902], pp. 50-52 with sketch of the large stone.
1911
(Translation below)
Y mae “Cynfyn” – Cefn Faen yn ein cario yn ol i’r amser pan oedd Derwyddiaeth mewn bri. Y mae yr eglwys wedi ei hadeiladu ynghanol Cylch Derwyddol ar y Maen Llog (yr hyn a olyga yr enw ar gefn y maen), ac y mae y Fynwent yn gylch crwn, fel yn dangos ei bod yn dilyn y Cylch Derwyddol.
Nid oes o’r cerrig yn aros heddyw ond rhyw bedair neu bump allan o’r deuddeg-a-deugain ddylasai fod. Y mae y Monolith yn aros, yr hon sydd tua 11 troedfedd o uchder o’r ddaear. Y mae yr oll yn mur y Fynwent. Dywedwyd wrthym gan hen wr, fod ei dad yn arfer dyweud wrtho mai oddiar ben y garreg sydd gerllaw i borth y fynwent y byddai y Cryer (Criwr) yn arfer, ar y Sul gyhoeddu Arwerthiantau, Freiriau, a phethau cyffelyb, a fyddent yn cael eu cynal yn yr wythnos ddyfodol. Y mae Oylch Derwyddol yma yn cyfateb i’r un sydd yn “Stonehenge.” Yma y cynhalient eu Cynhadleddau blynyddol. Y mae yn y plwyf ddwy glych llai — Cyrchleoedd Chwarterol y Derwyddion.
Ryw amser yn y dyfodol, ceisiwn roddi ychydig yn fwy o’r hanes Derwyddol, etc., ond nis gallwn y tro hwn ddiweddu heb gofnodi mai gerllaw yr Eglwys,-ar dir perthynol i’r Eglwys, y mae Pont-bren ‘Ffeiriad (Parson’s Bridge). Y mae tri traddodiad ynglyn ar enw, sef fod yna Offeiriad wedi cwympo a boddi yn y Rheidol yn y fan hon. Un arall ydyw fod ar y graig sydd uwchlaw y dwfr, ddarlun o offeiriad yn ei wenwisg.
Nid oes yr un hanes fod neb wedi boddi yn y fan hon, chwaethach offeiriad, ac yr ydym ni yn dyst nad oes y fath beth a’r darlun ar y graig.
Yn ddiamheu y rheswm paham y gelwir hi ar yr enw hwn ydyw, flynyddoedd meithion yn ol yr oedd yn rhaid i’r offeiriad oedd yn gwein- yddu yn Ysbytty gerdded o Llanbadarn i fyny. Yn awr, yn lie dilyn y ffordd drwy Bont-y-Derwydd (Ponterwyd), rhoddwyd pren o graig i graig-(pellder fua 6 troedfedd) ar y Rheidol er mwyn i’r offeiriad grocsi a thrwy hyny hyd yn awr gelwir hi Pont-bren-Ffeirad.
(“Cynfyn” – Cefn Faen takes us back to the time of Druidism and the church is built in the middle of a Druidical Circle on the Maen Llog (what the name means on the back of the stone), and the Cemetery is circular, showing that it follows the Druidical Circle.
Only about four or five out of what should have been twelve stone survive today. The remaining Monolith is about 11 feet high from the ground. All are in the Cemetery wall. We were told by an old man, that his father used to tell him that the Cryer used to be on the Sunday announcing the following week’s Auctions, Fairs, and the like, from the stone near the cemetery gate. A Druidic Ring here is the equivalent of “Stonehenge.” Here they held their annual Conferences. There are two smaller circles in the parish – the Druids Quarterly retreats.
… the Parson’s Bridge is near the Church, on the land belonging to the Church, and there are three traditions about the name that a Priest has fallen and drowned in the Rheidol at this point, another is that on the rock above the water, there is a picture of a priest in his robes.
There is no story of anyone drowning here, you priest, and we are witnessing that there is no such thing as a picture on the rock.
No doubt the reason why it is called this name, years ago the priest serving in Hospital had to walk from Llanbadarn upwards. Now, instead of following the road through Pont-y-Derwydd (Ponterwyd), a rock of rock was placed (a 6 foot long pillar) on the Rheidol for the priest to crochet and through this is now called the Pont-bren-Ffeirad (Parson’s wooden bridge.)
Evans, C., ‘Ysbytty Cynfyn’, Transaction of the Cardiganshire Antiquarian Society and Archaeological Record, Vol. 1, part 2 [1911], pp. 25-26
1954
The Parson’s Bridge is a mile and a half higher up the Rheidol [from thew Devil’s Bridge] and is reached by following the road which crossed the bridge from the Hotel, as far as Ysbyty Cynfyn where in the churchyard are some ancient stones
Anon, Gossiping Guide to Wales, (Complete Revised edition 1954), p. 52
Early Tourists in Wales 